At the corner of Gayley and Kinross Avenue sits a small, pop-in shop serving both Taiwanese and Hong Kong-style classics. Blending vintage aesthetics with a touch of modernism, Liu’s Cafe features an inviting, open-style kitchen, lines of counter-top seats stretching from wall to wall and a delicately tiled floor reminiscent of an upscaled diner. Jade accents complement the beige interior as natural light streams in through the large front window. From there, people can be seen queued along the sidewalk as early as opening hours.
Despite only being the second of its name – the original Koreatown location having received an overwhelmingly positive response following its opening in 2023 – Liu’s has already received two Michelin Bib Gourmand awards (a title given to restaurants with “exceptionally good food at moderate prices”) in the years 2024 and 2025.
I went about a month after its landing in Westwood, and while we expected a crowd, a line ending just short of the intersection awaited my friend and I upon arrival. After twenty minutes, we ordered our food and were seated near the far end of the dining area.
What struck me first was not the rich scent of umami nor the clatter of high chairs mere inches apart, but instead the fat, bright green chopsticks atop the plethora of white porcelain plates. In comparison to the modern interior, they were what most reminded me of the cafes I knew from childhood – those traditional homesteads with old, tacky silverware and furniture that always felt a little more dirty than they should.
The Hong Kong milk tea arrived before anything else. Silky smooth with a strong tea flavor, each sip became more addicting than the next. In comparison to larger tea chains, however, the texture fell a little flat, resulting in a slightly watery drink. Nevertheless, the bitterness made for a good balance to both its sweetness and the saltiness of the main dishes.
Sitting on the encircles of the kitchen, servers slid the rest of our plates from across the counter, steam wafting in our direction as we indulged in our first bite of food, the braised pork rice. Topped on a bed of fluffy white rice, the ground meat was succulent and juicy, the sauce adding layers of spice to an otherwise salty base. Hearty and nostalgic, it serves as a representation of Liu’s founding purpose: to provide quality food in the reminder of home.
We then tried the spicy wontons, and with a slightly saccharine, slightly acidic profile, they quickly became a favorite. I paired it with the braised pork rice which turned out to be a delightful combination, one I would definitely order again.
While we tried saving the iconic Hong Kong French toast for last, we were tempted into taking small bites between each dish. The fresh crust beckoned to us, the syrup spilling onto the sides as we made our first slice. A sweet, white crème spilled from the inside, and though my friend enjoyed it, it proved too much for me, particularly in combination with the buttery dough. I opted for the more savory items instead.
Liu’s Cafe is among the many restaurants in Westwood offering a taste of Asian cuisines, but it’s not only their flavorings that makes them unique; it’s the experience they offer. With both a modern and traditional twist, they give an authenticity that others seem to lack. Their firm belief of affordable prices – ranging anywhere from $4.5 drinks to $13 mains – along with the quality and aesthetic of their food sets them apart in an economy that demands inflation. Given its popularity even a month later, perhaps it stands as a successful and rising model prizing tradition rather than trend.
Visual Credit: Alyssa Kim
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